Beausoleil in England

Up at the usual time to finish packing. I had forgotten the itineraries for inside our suitcases so used our printer as a copier to make them. Fed Mimi and put out her cat food for the sitters then killed time until 9:30. Left for Sabores del Sur restaurant in Walnut Creek to meet Peg. Used Google on my phone to find it. She was waiting for us there so we ordered and then opened birthday and Mother’s Day gifts before our lunches arrived. Peg said her empanada was good but our pork lomitos were pretty mediocre. We each ate half and gave up. Next time we’ll find another restaurant.

Peg drove us to BART and she took our car while Ed and I took the escalator up to catch our train to the airport. An hour later we arrived at the San Francisco International Airport. We found Virgin Atlantic and discovered I couldn’t open our boarding passes on my phone. Had no trouble with Air France last September. Fortunately, I had printed them too so we left our bags and headed for “Priority” Security. Typical fiasco . . . shoes off, coats off, dump everything in bins and naturally even though I didn’t set off any alarms, I was pulled for a pat-down and my hands were swabbed with something icky. Dumb! We finally pulled ourselves together and walked to the gate where I signed into SFO free wifi and pulled up our now-redundant boarding passes. At Air France both passes pop right up and you can swipe from one to the other. Virgin Atlantic hasn’t quite got it figured out yet. I’m now charging my phone and put in Ed’s SIM card for Europe . . . and we wait.

We made it to London Heathrow Airport. Very long flight on Virgin Atlantic Airlines and my seat didn’t recline. Add the guy across the aisle who spent the entire night filling out a bright white “Leave Request Form” online and using an equally bright white planner with his overhead light on and I didn’t get much sleep. They fed us a pretty bad breakfast and we landed at LHR. Ed’s suitcase arrived but mine didn’t. We finally retreated to Customer Service where a lovely woman walked the conveyor belt and found my red suitcase with a bright green strap that had fallen off the belt behind a wall and no one noticed. I was so grateful. So far she’s the only one at Virgin Atlantic who has impressed me.

We went out to meet the shuttle to Budget Car Hire and had to wait more than thirty minutes. When we got to Budget, the line was long and slow and the woman less than helpful but we finally got the car and were on our way. Google refused to do directions on my French phone so we got out our Garmin GPS and used it. Not perfect, but it worked and we zipped across England in and out of rain that finally stopped.

We had been told the key would be in our apartment door but couldn’t get in because we didn’t have the key code to the outside door. They neglected to mention that little detail. Some other guests showed up and let us in but the keys weren’t in the apartment door. I finally figured out how to use my French phone in England and got the manager. I had been looking at room 5 and the keys were in room 3. I swear she told me 5, but we took 3 and it’s fine. We unpacked and set off to explore . . . and eat. We had skipped lunch in all the excitement of landing, getting our car and escaping the airport in London.

Salisbury is really nice and it's an easy walk from our apartment to downtown. We found Café Rouge right downtown and they had confit de canard so we went in. Great choice. The food was good and the young British server very nice. Afterwards, we walked down past Salisbury Cathedral which is lovely. On the way we passed a fudge shop that had a fudge stone henge set up in the window and titled "Fudge Henge." That was pretty funny but we didn't try the fudge. We walked around the Cathedral and green taking sunset pictures and then headed back up the hill to our apartment and some much-needed sleep. Café Rouge, Old George Mall, 19-21 High St, Salisbury SP1 2AF; tel: +44 (0)1722 330417; email: [email protected]; Web site for Cafe Rouge in Salisbury

We slept until 9:30 . . . about 3½ hours longer than usual. Walked downtown to visit the Cathedral and discovered BBC was there for the day doing a special. One of the docents told us there was a clock demonstration so we hurried over and caught most of it. Then we started to explore the massive Cathedral. A docent came over to see if we were lost at one point and when he discovered we were fine, he asked, “Do you know who my favorite knight is?” He then took us over to the funerary sculpture and tomb of Lord Cheney and told us his story. Then he and Ed got into ancient British history until they closed the back of the church for a service. We left for lunch at The Bell Tower Tea Room which was okay but marred by two middle-aged English women trying to out-impress each other . . . very loudly. The food tasted better when they left, but I wouldn't go there again except for the view of the Cathedral. The Bell Tower Tea Room, Salisbury SP1 2EJ; tel: +44 (0)1722 328131; Salisbury Cathedral Bell Tower Tea Room Web Site

We returned to the Cathedral and our morning docent found us and he and Ed continued their foray into British history. It always amazes me that he remembers all the history he reads! We paid homage to the Magna Carta and toured the cloister.

Next, we walked over to Mompesson House and entered using our National Trust memberships. Again, the docents were enthusiastic, knowledgeable and very interesting. We went through the house and garden and then stopped for tea in their tea room to rest our weary feet. Bought a few things in the gift shop and set off looking for the River Walk. Mompesson House, The Close, Salisbury SP1 2EL; tel: +44 1722 335659; Mompesson House Web Site

We had to ask directions once but found Queen Elizabeth Park and the Town Path. On the way we found swans begging for treats at the Crane Street Bridge over the Avon River. That was fun. The park was there and the path easily found. It takes you through the Harnham Water Meadows with beautiful views of the Salisbury Cathedral across the marshes. At the end you come out at the Old Mill Hotel and a cute thatched cottage on Lower Street. We decided to return through the Water Meadows just because it was so pretty.

Then we started looking for dinner and settled on Côte Brasserie at 8 St. Thomas Square . . . another French restaurant. We both got the fish parmentier and crème caramel. After dinner, the man next to us asked if we were American. He was from Sicily and his wife was British. We had a long fun conversation. Côte Brasserie at 8 St. Thomas Square, Salisbury SP1 1BA; tel: +44 (0)01722 335 164; [email protected]; Côte Brasserie Web Site

Long day . . . long walk home . . .

Woke earlier today and walked downtown to Patisserie Valerie for breakfast. Stopped at the Tourist Office on the way home and got maps and information . . . which I then forgot to take with us.

Got the car and headed out to Old Sarum that we’d read about in Edward Rutherfurd’s book “Sarum.” We parked, joined the English Heritage Society and entered the ruined castle. It is a complete ruin but the views are spectacular. We covered most of it and headed south to New Forest, subject of another Rutherfurd book. As we entered the park, we started seeing animals wandering freely . . . donkeys, horses, cows and a few pigs. We stopped at the Green Dragon Pub for lunch. It is a thatch-roofed pub in the park, beautiful and friendly. We had two donkeys in the front yard as we ate. Ed got fish and chips and I got the sea bass . . . both very good.

Old Sarum, Castle Rd, Salisbury, Wiltshire SP1 3SD; tel: +44 (0)3703 331181; English Heritage Web Site for Old Sarum

The Green Dragon Pub, B3079, Brook, Hampshire SO43 7HE; tel: +44 (0)2380 813359; [email protected]; The Green Dragon Pub web site

We originally left looking for the New Forest Museum in Lyndhurst but traffic got nasty so we decided on Beaulieu Abbey instead. We found Beaulieu and parking but no abbey and wandered through the very pretty town looking for both castle and abbey. We found the castle but not the entrance and couldn't even find a sign to the Abbey. It showed very clearly on our map but somehow none of the roads seemed to get us there.

We eventually gave up and decided on Buckler’s Hard instead. Garmin, our GPS, got us on a one-lane road to nowhere and we finally turned back and found the historic village but it was twenty minutes to closing so we decided to call it a day and fight the traffic back home. We've been a little surprised at how heavy traffic is here.

Made it and had a very light dinner at Cafè Rouge and plan on lots of sleep tonight. Tomorrow we set off for Cornwall.

Up early, packed a little then walked downtown to Pret-a-Manger for breakfast. Back up the hill to finish packing and the gal came early for checkout so we were soon on the road. It was a British bank holiday so we wanted to get an early start to avoid as much traffic as possible.

Garmin got us out of Salisbury fighting the bank holiday traffic. Once in the country, we were okay and arrived at Lambriggan Court two hours early. We chatted a few minutes and drove a quarter mile to Cider Disneyland (Healey’s Cornish Cyder Farm) for a very late lunch. Tried fish and chips . . . it is England . . . and it was okay. Looked around a little at peacocks, chickens and a very large draft horse. Oh yes . . . the cider was delicious! Healey's is almost a cider amusement park with all sorts of animals, many roaming freely to be petted, hay rides and guided tours, a gift shop and of course, cider tastings. The tea room has a pretty basic menu but they do serve all day and have picnic tables outside to use in nice weather. It's very touristy but also very fun. Little kids all seemed to love it. Healey's Cornish Cyder Farm, Penhallow, Truro TR4 9LW; tel: +44 (0)1872 573356; [email protected]; Web site for Healey's Cornish Cyder Farm

We returned to the house and checked in. It is fabulous . . . maybe the best of the trip. So far everything works . . . well, except my phone which texts but won’t let me make a telephone call. Next we drove north looking for a church and finally found one in Newquay. We were trying to decipher the Mass schedule and parking fees when a gentleman walked over and said there was a 6:00 PM Mass and we could park for free. Then he introduced us to the young priest. It’s a tiny but enthusiastic church and we enjoyed it. Lambriggan Court, Penhallow, Truro, TR4 9LU; tel: +44 (0)1872 571636; Web Site for Lambriggan Court Rental Cottages

Back to the house to relax and unpack. I put photos on my computer and did my journal and now plan to sleep a long time!

Postscript: At the end of the trip we decided Lambriggan Court was our favorite cottage. We loved the cottage we were in, Piran Cottage, the grounds with gardens and lake and the marvelous host and hostess. The location was also excellent so it was the top of our list when we compared everyplace we stayed.

Sunday morning but we went to church last night so slept late and then took a walk around our lovely grounds. They have a lot of very happy and fluffy chickens, a pond and beautiful gardens. I had texted Miner’s Arms for a reservation but hadn’t heard from them. Gary told us the local mobile phone provider is down but their land-line works and they offered it to us if we needed it. Fortunately I have my computer so we can email family if necessary, and since my phone isn’t working, I asked Fiona to call the Miner’s Arms for us. She did and they did get my text so we had a reservation.

Around noon we drove to Mithian and easily found Miner’s Arms. We ordered the Sunday roast. Ed got the beef and I got the lamb. Both were delicious and very filling. It was a busy, fun pub and the staff were all terrific. Good choice. They also have a great beer garden and a little store in the Inn with juice, milk, cheese and quite a few other necessities. Very convenient. Miner’s Arms, Mithian, Saint Agnes TR5 0QF; tel: +44 (0)1872 552375; [email protected]; Web Site for Miner's Arms Pub

Decided to drive to Trerice House near Newquay and set off up the road . . . always exciting in Cornwall. Arrived, parked (free) and entered using our National Trust cards. Lots of little lambs posing for photos and lovely gardens. The docents were interesting as most on this trip seem to be. Most fascinating was the collection of grandfather clocks . . . seventeen of them. There were also other smaller clocks . . . fascinating. My father who collected grandfather clocks (and a few others) would have loved it. I hope someone is taking care of all his clock collection. Trerice House, Kestle Mill, Newquay TR8 4PG; tel: +44 (0)1637 875404; +44 (0)1637 875404; [email protected]; National Trust Web Site for Trerice House

We drove to Morrison’s for groceries and arrived just as they closed. That necessitated driving into central Newquay to ASDA Supermarket to get supplies for the week, but it worked. We have food.

Spent the evening catching up on Sandi’s American Watercolor Society (AWS) schedules, having cider, cheese and crackers on our patio, and Ed is doing a laundry. Another sunny day except for fog in Newquay.

The laundry last night took nearly three hours so we’re tired today. It’s a bank holiday and beautiful so we’re hoping everyone goes to the beach as we go into Truro. Gary gave us careful directions to Viaduct Parking so we’re all set. Hung the laundry outside, ate breakfast and set off for Truro. B3284 turns into Pydar Street in Truro. You enter Pydar Parking just past the railroad overpass. From there you can park in Pydar Parking if there's room or wander through several parking areas including Viaduct Long-Term Parking with plenty of room even on busy days.

Amazingly, we drove directly to Viaduct Parking, parked in the upper Pydar Street section, paid and set off on foot following the Cathedral spires. It was an easy downhill walk and we arrived before the 10:00 opening so we waited. They allowed us in at 10:00 sharp and we wandered the massive neo-Gothic church. One docent stopped and gave us information. Additionally, everything was very well signed. There are 78 stained glass windows and a magnificent carved stone reredos behind the high altar by Nathaniel Hitch. It is overwhelming, done in Bath stone. However, the Bath stone used on the outside of the Cathedral is not wearing well and they are slowly replacing it at great expense. Click here for photos and information about the stained glass windows The link includes a map. If you click on the blue lines indicating the windows, you are linked to the information for that set of windows.

We ended our tour in the Cathedral gift shop where I found a lovely blue striped scarf to match my new raincoat, and Ed got additional change for parking. He paid the extra parking and we set off looking for a restaurant. We found one and it was closed. Back to the shop to ask for restaurants and they gave us a Truro map and several suggestions. We found the nearest one and made our choices. No luck . . . they were out of Ed’s menu choice. Back to the menu and another choice. He returned to order . . . no luck again. Not crab season yet. Why is it on the menu?

At that point, we gathered our things and quietly left to find a place with food. We headed for restaurant #2 and happened on Manning’s on the way so we looked at their menu and decided it would do. Good choice. We both got the salmon and mussels with dill potato salad which was excellent. We got Manning’s Alaska for dessert, a baked Alaska on sticky chewy toffee pudding and ice cream. Add a California Zin and it was a great meal. Mannings Hotel-Restaurant, 82 Lemon St, Truro TR1 2QB; tel: +44 (0)1872 247900; [email protected]; Mannings Hotel-Restaurant web site

We walked back to the Cornish Museum after lunch and enjoyed learning about Cornwall until our parking time ran out. The museum is a member of English Heritage so was free since we're members. Royal Cornwall Museum, River Street, Truro TR1 2SJ; tel: +44 (0)1872 272205; [email protected]; Royal Cornwall Museum Web Site

Hiked back, now uphill, to parking and retrieved the car and drove home. Ed took a short nap, then got the now-dry laundry and we’re in for the night. Still no Internet. Hope it comes on in time to pay the bills.

Later . . . Drove to Healey’s for a cream tea and called it dinner. Fun!

Woke to fog and mist. Had a leisurely breakfast but the weather didn’t improve much. The weather report swore it wouldn’t rain so we went on the Penwith Driving Tour in one of our guide books. The first stop was Zennor so we started on the A30 but soon had to leave it for smaller . . . and smaller roads. We arrived in tiny Zennor behind a tour van full of pensioners so we followed them from parking to St. Senara's Church and spent the next half hour stumbling over them, avoiding their flash cameras and incessant chatter. The church is famous for its Mermaid Chair that we saw and photographed. We walked around a little but there isn’t much else in Zennor and the mist was very heavy. Saint Senara’s Church, Zennor, Saint Ives TR26 3BY; tel: +44 (01736) 741488; [email protected]; Click here for Saint Senara's Church web site

It was raining by this time so we decided to skip Lanyon Quoit, a megalithic tomb in a field, and Trengwainton Garden and go to Newlyn to look through galleries. On the way we passed an abandoned mine with a huge chimney so we stopped for pictures . . . in the fog and rain. Later discovered this was Carn Galver Engine House and a National Trust Site. I had to dry my camera and clean the lens but did get photos. We continued on to Newlyn, followed a sign to parking and soon found ourselves out of town. Do they do this to discourage tourists? At that we decided to continue to Mousehole which we found at the bottom of an extremely narrow road. However, they did have parking! Hooray for Mousehole! Carn Galver Engine House National Trust Site of Cornish Mining Heritage, B3306 near Zennor; National Trust web site for Cornish Mining Heritage

We cheerfully parked in Mousehole and started to look around. There is a very nice gallery beside parking and the young lady there recommended two local restaurants so we checked the nearest, 2 Fore Street, and liked the menu. Then we hiked up to The Coast Guard Restaurant which was more elegant but had a dull menu. We quickly walked back to 2 Fore Street for lunch. We both got the crab soufflé with green salad and a side of bread and olives with a Minervois wine. It was delicious, just perfect and the portions were excellent, much smaller than the overlarge ones we’ve been getting here. Thus, we cheerfully ordered rice pudding with rhubarb compote in ginger sauce for dessert. Great combination! Restaurant 2 Fore Street Mousehole, Cornwall TR19 6QU, tel: +44 (0)1736 731164; Click here for 2 Fore Street Restaurant in Mousehole

We walked around Mousehole and out the pier where I got great photos of Saint Michael’s Mount since the sun had finally come out and the fog dispersed. A friendly clerk suggested we follow the local bus when we left because the bus would clear the extremely narrow road for us. This was her strategy and a great idea. When it was time for the bus, we got the car and followed it out of town. We cheerfully ignored our daffy GPS and followed the bus to A30 and continued to Lands End, a beautiful drive on real roads. It was late and much was closed but we walked out to the point and took some pictures and walked along the cliffs to the First and Last House and back thoroughly enjoying wildflowers on the way.

Retrieved the car and took the A30 home . . . a much easier drive than earlier. Had cheese and crackers for dinner and watched Trump pull the USA out of the Iran Nuclear Deal on television. They are now analyzing it to pieces and no one agrees . . . because no one knows what will happen. News people love to predict the future and of course that’s impossible.