May 3, 2018 — Ed’s birthday in Salisbury

We slept until 9:30 . . . about 3½ hours longer than usual. Walked downtown to visit the Cathedral and discovered BBC was there for the day doing a special. One of the docents told us there was a clock demonstration so we hurried over and caught most of it. Then we started to explore the massive Cathedral. A docent came over to see if we were lost at one point and when he discovered we were fine, he asked, “Do you know who my favorite knight is?” He then took us over to the funerary sculpture and tomb of Lord Cheney and told us his story. Then he and Ed got into ancient British history until they closed the back of the church for a service. We left for lunch at The Bell Tower Tea Room which was okay but marred by two middle-aged English women trying to out-impress each other . . . very loudly. The food tasted better when they left, but I wouldn't go there again except for the view of the Cathedral. The Bell Tower Tea Room, Salisbury SP1 2EJ; tel: +44 (0)1722 328131; Salisbury Cathedral Bell Tower Tea Room Web Site

We returned to the Cathedral and our morning docent found us and he and Ed continued their foray into British history. It always amazes me that he remembers all the history he reads! We paid homage to the Magna Carta and toured the cloister.

Next, we walked over to Mompesson House and entered using our National Trust memberships. Again, the docents were enthusiastic, knowledgeable and very interesting. We went through the house and garden and then stopped for tea in their tea room to rest our weary feet. Bought a few things in the gift shop and set off looking for the River Walk. Mompesson House, The Close, Salisbury SP1 2EL; tel: +44 1722 335659; Mompesson House Web Site

We had to ask directions once but found Queen Elizabeth Park and the Town Path. On the way we found swans begging for treats at the Crane Street Bridge over the Avon River. That was fun. The park was there and the path easily found. It takes you through the Harnham Water Meadows with beautiful views of the Salisbury Cathedral across the marshes. At the end you come out at the Old Mill Hotel and a cute thatched cottage on Lower Street. We decided to return through the Water Meadows just because it was so pretty.

Then we started looking for dinner and settled on Côte Brasserie at 8 St. Thomas Square . . . another French restaurant. We both got the fish parmentier and crème caramel. After dinner, the man next to us asked if we were American. He was from Sicily and his wife was British. We had a long fun conversation. Côte Brasserie at 8 St. Thomas Square, Salisbury SP1 1BA; tel: +44 (0)01722 335 164; salisbury@cote-restaurants.co.uk; Côte Brasserie Web Site

Long day . . . long walk home . . .